Humbling. Sobering.
Awe-inspiring.
Perched high atop a cliff
overlooking the rugged coastline of France, the Normandy American Cemetery and Memorial is a place that defies all superlatives. Everything about it is
staggering: the size, the number of graves, the way the sheer beauty of the
place contrasts with the desperate battle that waged just below, on Omaha
Beach. Looking out over the English Channel on a peaceful day, it's hard to imagine the bloodshed of June 6, 1944.
Visitors enter through a
museum that tries to bring some of that enormity down to size. A video tells
the stories of a few individual soldiers. World War II uniforms, ration packs,
medical kits, letters, equipment, maps, photographs, and more depict the
build-up to D-Day and the execution of Operation Overlord. The museum alone
could absorb half a day of contemplation. And somehow, it still doesn’t prepare
you for what’s next.
For beyond the museum doors
lies a sea of green grass and white marble headstones, seemingly without end. Stretched
out in neat rows are 9,387 Latin crosses and Stars of David, each marking the
final resting place of an American serviceman. Many are unknown. A
reverent hush lies over the place as visitors wander through, some looking for
a special grave, some just trying to take it all in. There is no doubt that
this is sacred ground.
The markers are engraved only
with the person’s name, company or division, state, and date of death. Perhaps,
as someone suggested to us, it was believed that including the date of birth
would make the cemetery seem overwhelmingly sad. We were reminded that 60
percent of the Americans who perished in Europe were sent back to the states
for burial, so the ones buried here represent only a fraction of the total
losses.
The Memorial, which sits in
front of a large reflecting pool, features a striking statue depicting “The
Spirit of American Youth Rising from the Waves.” Engraved tablets record the names
of 1,557 missing in action, while stone maps show the positions of the D-Day
landings and air operations. Fresh flowers at the base of the
statue express gratitude to the sacrifices of the World War II generation. The families
of Dachau concentration camp victims and survivors send a new arrangement every
week.
Two American flags fly
proudly over the cemetery. At the end of each day, the flags are lowered, one
at a time, while a single trumpet plays Taps.
It’s a sight and sound I hope
I never forget, and one that seems especially poignant on Memorial Day. Thank you, all who served, and especially those who rest today in Normandy.
--Shelley
© Shelley Bishop 2013. Please
request permission to use photographs and/or written material.
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